Zylinderkopfdichtung, kurbelwelle und "Heavy Metal"

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  • Hello Mats!

    After many weeks I took a look to the forum and saw your video :) . Again, it is amazing what you get out of the old Husaberg Engine!!
    My main bearing seats are totally worn and the bearings have to be changed soon. Your bearing update looks very nice! Do you have first experiences with them? Do they last longer than the original ones at your engine (5h... as I can remember)?
    Could you imagine some other construction on the right side which allows the original ignition to stay?
    Is it possible to "order" one of the left sleeves at you :) ? My counter balancer is removed since many years. Even without extra balancing efforts the engine works. But of course - with 30% less power than yours :D ...

    Best regards
    Flo
    "Träume nicht dein Leben - Lebe deinen Traum!" :top:
  • Flo schrieb:

    Hello Mats!

    After many weeks I took a look to the forum and saw your video :) . Again, it is amazing what you get out of the old Husaberg Engine!!
    My main bearing seats are totally worn and the bearings have to be changed soon. Your bearing update looks very nice! Do you have first experiences with them? Do they last longer than the original ones at your engine (5h... as I can remember)?
    Could you imagine some other construction on the right side which allows the original ignition to stay?
    Is it possible to "order" one of the left sleeves at you :) ? My counter balancer is removed since many years. Even without extra balancing efforts the engine works. But of course - with 30% less power than yours :D ...

    Best regards
    Flo
    Hi Flo!
    The spherical roller bearings are MUCH stronger than whatever could be fit in the stock seats. I think they can take 3 times the radial load, compare to stock size bearings, and 1,5 degrees tumbling! Yes, there is absolutely no signs of wear after close to 10h. If you are running your engine with close to stock power, I would suggest to just make sleeves that would make stock size mains fit. Are you sure you cannot refit new bearings with a bushing adhesive?
    /Dr_C
  • Hey Mats!

    Thanks for your answer. It is nice to hear that the big bearings don't struggle with your big engine!
    Of course I could use standard bearings again. But as the history showed, my engine just can expect 35-45h with one main bearing set. I have the special durable 2004 model ;) ...
    The bushing adhesive is possible, you're right. But it would be very nice to have a more durable bike (100+h @ 644ccm).

    When you use steel bushings at steel bearings - how do you change them? Just cold pressure? I think then some widening of the seat will occur, not?
    Do you may sell some bushing for the left side which lies around ;) ?

    Another question: does your selfmade swing arm (trellis frame) works as designed? This was very fascinating from design to final hardware (e.g. bending with sand)! Has it shown some cracks until now?

    Best regards
    Flo
    "Träume nicht dein Leben - Lebe deinen Traum!" :top:
  • Flo schrieb:

    Hey Mats!

    Thanks for your answer. It is nice to hear that the big bearings don't struggle with your big engine!
    Of course I could use standard bearings again. But as the history showed, my engine just can expect 35-45h with one main bearing set. I have the special durable 2004 model ;) ...
    The bushing adhesive is possible, you're right. But it would be very nice to have a more durable bike (100+h @ 644ccm).

    When you use steel bushings at steel bearings - how do you change them? Just cold pressure? I think then some widening of the seat will occur, not?
    Do you may sell some bushing for the left side which lies around ;) ?

    Another question: does your selfmade swing arm (trellis frame) works as designed? This was very fascinating from design to final hardware (e.g. bending with sand)! Has it shown some cracks until now?

    Best regards
    Flo
    The worst primary problems with the Husaberg bottom end, is the distance between the main bearings. That makes the crank bend too much for ordinary bearings to handle. Computer simulations showed that in my engine, the crank bends appr. 0,5 deg at each main bearing. The spherical roller bearings are capable of handling 1,5 deg (tumbling, not static!). I made the transmission side bearing bushing so it is positioning the main bearing directly against the crank web. This should reduce the bending. However, these bearings cannot take so much axial load. So to prevent that I had to grind the inside of the inner rings, so the crank shaft can slide axially in the bearing. Then it needs to be installed with 0,4-0,6 mm axial play, to prevent the crank from pushing onto the main bearings as it spreads/bends.

    The bushings are press fitted into the cases and the bearings are press fitted in the bushings. Calculating the tolerances in the press fits, just wasn't blown out of the nose either (swedish saying!). To get the correct bearing press fit at 100degC casing temperature, depends much on the press fit between the bushing (steel) and the casing (alu)! As another precaution I have secured the transmission side sleeve with two M5 screws and the flywheel side with a large nut around the seat of the seal. So the sleeves/bushes will stay in place, also making it possible to replace bearings by just pressing them out.

    The spherical roller bearings are 20mm wide. There is plenty of room for that on the transmission side. However it is more difficult on the flywheel side. You cannot position the seal much further out, because it will (as you mentioned) collide with the flywheel, and the sealing lip will run out of contact with the crank shaft. I can ask a friend on what bearing type he is using on the flywheel side, to make both sides last 100h. In any case, making this happen is not cheap. My operation costed perhaps 6-700€, including bearings.

    The swing arm works as expected. Difficult to tell specifically what the swing arm does, but the whole bike seems a little bit more "precise" out of the corners. The stresses in the frame/swing arm are not very high. When designing, it is the desired level of stiffness that sets the limits. The highest stresses are surrounding the rear shock linkage mounts onto the swing arm, so I
    keep that area under "ocular control". :)
    /Dr_C
  • Hey Mats!

    Thanks alot for all the information! It sounds very comfortable just to cold press new bearings into the steel seats. Funny Swedish saying by the way ;) ...
    It would be great if you could ask your friend how he figured out the space problem on the ignition side! I know some guy in an advanced metal editing company who can widen the seats by eroding. When my engine will stop working I plan to do some bearing upgrade. Your way is the most promising I saw until now :).
    Did you use Ansys also for the swing arm simulation? Great to hear it works also in race conditions!

    Would you share your experience in designing the seat tolerances? This would be fantastic :thumbup: !

    Best regards
    Flo
    "Träume nicht dein Leben - Lebe deinen Traum!" :top: